The Homebuyer’s Water-Risk Checklist: 8 Pre-listing Tips

By Jake Dadon, Realtor & Property Pro (Las Vegas)

When I’m representing a seller, my first walk-through is part pricing exercise, part risk hunt. Before I worry about paint colors or staging, I ask one question: What could spook a buyer’s inspector? In Las Vegas, water is the usual suspect: Roof underlayment past its prime, flat roofs that pond after monsoons (which are a big deal in this area), irrigation overspray beating up stucco, clogged window weep holes, a water heater on its last legs, or an air handler with a lazy condensate line. I map those risks in the first 15-20 minutes because they directly affect market time, negotiation leverage, and ultimately the net my client takes home.

1. Tile Roofs with Aging Underlayment

Tile can look great while the felt underlayment quietly reaches the end of its life. On a pre-listing walk, I start at the street to read the roofline for uneven planes or patchy areas. Up close, I scan ridges and penetrations-vents, skylights, satellite mounts-for brittle sealant and rusted fasteners. 

If the seller allows attic access, I take a slow sweep with a flashlight: dark “coffee rings” on sheathing, daylight at fasteners, and damp insulation are my tells. I also ask for roof invoices or warranty info to bracket age.

Pro tip: If I see evidence that underlayment is near or past its prime, I document with photos and recommend a licensed roofer for a written assessment before we hit the market. Buyers will find this; it’s better if we find it first. If stains suggest active moisture, I bring in a local damage restoration company to moisture-map and set baselines we can disclose confidently.

2. Flat Roofs that Pond After Monsoons

Flat and low-slope roofs shouldn’t hold water after storms. I check scuppers for clogs, parapet caps for failed seams, and the membrane for “alligatored” coating or seam lift around HVAC curbs. On the fascia below, dirty tide lines can betray historic ponding. Inside, ceilings directly under the roof get an extra look for faint rings or patch paint.

Pro tip: I note where ponding appears and how close it is to penetrations, then suggest a roofer evaluate drainage, scupper sizing, and membrane condition. If we can’t complete roof work pre-market, I price and disclose realistically and-when appropriate-set up an escrow holdback so buyers feel protected.

3. Irrigation Overspray Beating Up Stucco and Foundations

In our desert, irrigation is the stealth culprit. I walk the perimeter and feel the stem wall near planter beds; constant dampness, green algae stripes, or efflorescence (that chalky white crust) tell me sprinklers are hitting the house. I open valve boxes to listen for hissing and look for soggy soil trenches along lines. If the seller is present, I’ll run a quick zone to watch for overspray.

Pro tip: Easy pre-listing wins include adjusting heads, adding drip near walls, clearing soil from the weep screed, and installing splash blocks.

4. Clogged Window Weep Holes

Windows “snitch” on a house. I start outside: weep holes should be open; if they’re clogged with paint, stucco, or landscape grit, water pools in the frame and finds the path of least resistance-usually indoors. Inside, I look for swollen sills, stained trim, and wrinkled flooring near sliders.

Pro tip:I never seal a weep hole; I clear it. Pre-listing, I have a handyman gently open weeps, refresh exterior caulk where appropriate (without trapping water), and touch up trim.

5. Water Heaters at End-of-Life

A tired tank can flood a garage-or a hallway if it’s in the attic. I read the serial number to estimate age, check for rust at fittings, and confirm there’s a pan with a drain line that actually terminates outside. Here’s a good guide to help you find out the age of the water heater.

If I can’t confirm the age, I look at the T&P valve and discharge tube, note whether there’s an expansion tank, and scan for damp marks below. In attics, I photograph everything and check the ceiling below for rings.

If the unit is near end-of-life, I advise replacing it before listing or price accordingly.

6. Air Handlers and Lazy Condensate Lines

Air conditioning can move gallons of water a day. I check the air handler’s drain pan for rust or standing water and trace the condensate line to see if it’s properly sloped. If the secondary drain is dripping outside, the primary is clogged-that’s a red flag. For attic units, I inspect the ceiling below for faint halos and the pan for a working float switch.

7. The Quick Pressure & Meter Check that Catches “Invisible” Leaks

While not as photogenic as a roof, water pressure and silent leaks worry inspectors. I pop a gauge on a hose bib; 55-70 PSI is my target. Anything over 80 PSI stresses valves and supply lines. Then I make sure all fixtures are off and glance at the water meter; if it moves, we likely have a hidden leak somewhere in the system.

Pro tip: For high pressure, I recommend checking or adding a pressure-reducing valve. For a spinning meter, I document and suggest a plumber isolate zones.

8. The “Fresh Paint Island” and Other Interior Tells

Inside the property, I use my nose and eyes to locate potential risks. Musty odor, cupped floors, warped baseboards, and localized islands of new paint in otherwise older rooms make me slow down. Around kitchens, baths, and laundry rooms, I put hands on sink bases, dishwasher corners, toilets, and supply lines.Pro tip: Photograph the area, meter suspicious walls or ceilings, and ask the seller for any invoices tied to that spot.

9. Pre-Listing Tips: Small Steps, Big Changes

My goal is to remove surprises from week two of escrow. Minor items such as clearing weep holes, adding splash blocks, adjusting irrigation, flushing a condensate line are small maintenance steps you can take that make a big difference. 

Bigger issues e.g. tired underlayment, flat-roof ponding, end-of-life water heater-either get repaired with invoices and warranties ready for buyers, or we disclose clearly and price to reflect reality. 

When moisture is involved, I prefer to include a short moisture map and re-inspection plan so a buyer’s inspector sees a proactive, well-documented file rather than a mystery.

Disclaimer: I'm a licensed Real Estate Broker and General Contractor in Nevada, but this checklist reflects only a quick, non-invasive walk-through, not a formal inspection or warranty. For definitive findings, always hire a licensed inspector or specialty contractor.